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01. Fishing Tackle
02. Salt-Water Lures
03. Fish in the Surf
04. Right Rig
05. Natural Baits
06. Tides-The Key
07. Deadly Art
08. Drift-Fish
09. Night
10. Party-Boat
11. Jetty Fishing
12. Trolling
13. Big Striped Bass
14. Pan Fish
15. Channel Bass
16. Sea Trout Fishing
17. Cod and Whiting
18. Your Fish
Resources
Chapter 12 - Trolling Know-How
Trolling looks deceptively simple and easy, but there is much more to it than just running a boat with a lure trailing behind. Like most methods of fishing there are certain skills to master and tricks to learn before you can get consistent results.
Once you learn these, however, trolling becomes one of the best ways to take salt-water game fish. From tiny inland salt-water creeks to 100 miles offshore, trolling produces more game fish day in and day out than any other method, and with less effort and work on the part of the angler.
Trolling is effective because it keeps your lure in the water for long periods, gives it constant action and continually presents it to new fish. When trolling you cover a lot of territory and sooner or later cross the path of single fish or schools of fish. There's also something about a moving boat and its wake which attracts game fish to investigate the commotion.
Actually almost any salt-water rod can be used for trolling if it's the proper length, weight and strength for the fishing being done. Thus, when trolling for small fish in shallow inland waters, many anglers often use spinning outfits or bait-casting rods and reels. Trolling rods, specially built for the purpose, come with light, medium and heavy actions. Most of them have tip sections running from 5 to 6 ft. in length and butts from 12 to 20 in. The reels you use, will, of course, balance the rod and line you use. Light boat reels, surf reels and trolling reels can be used with the lighter rods, but for the heavy trolling big-game rods you may need the largest reels made. See Chapter 1 for details on the various fishing outfits.
Lines used for trolling include linen, braided nylon, braided Dacron, monofilament, nylon with a lead core and braided, twisted and solid wire lines. Linen, braided nylon, Dacron and monofilament lines are used for most trolling on or near the surface; lead-core nylon and braided and twisted wire lines are used for moderate depths; while solid wire lines are used for deep trolling.
In recent years wire lines have become popular in salt water although they were used for lake-trout trolling in fresh water a long time ago. Braided and twisted wire lines are a little easier to handle but they offer more drag and resistance in the water than the thin-diameter solid wire lines. All wire lines tend to kink and care should be taken when letting line off the reel. The best way to do this is to throw the reel into free spool but leave the click on. Care should also be taken to see that the line is even when you are reeling it back on the reel spool.
The strength of the line used will, of course, depend on the rod, reel and fishing being done. Light outfits call for lines testing from 15 to 45 lbs. Medium outfits use lines from 45- to 72-lb. test, while heavy outfits use fishing lines from 72 lbs. and up.
In trolling near the surface, weights are generally not needed and a reasonable depth can be reached simply by letting out some line. But if you are using lures which revolve or spin and cause the line to twist, a keel can be added above the leader to prevent the twisting. In addition, with any lure, one or more barrel swivels should be used to prevent the line from twisting.
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Most offshore fishing boats do trolling for the larger game fish. Here if you charter a boat you follow the instructions of the captain or mate.
There are on the market various kinds of trolling weights and keels which can be used to prevent line twist and provide weight to send the line deep and keep it there. For light trolling, small clinchers, trolling or keel sinkers will do the trick. Many of these are attached to bead chains which act as swivels. For deep trolling even heavier trolling weights may be needed. These may weigh from a few ounces to several pounds. The weights are usually used with linen, braided nylon or dacron and monofilament lines. Wire lines get down pretty deep without added weight although when trolling in strong currents or very deep water you can also add a weight to the wire line. You can also buy trolling aids, such as planing and gliding devices, which will take a line down deep.
Almost all the lures used in salt-water fishing can be used for trolling, but some are better adapted for this purpose than others. Thus, for bays, sounds, rivers and inlets small jigs, spinners, small spoon and underwater plugs are best. For trolling along beaches or near the shore for stripers, blues and channel bass, such lures as surgical tubes, spoons, jigs, surface and underwater plugs, eel skin and rigged eels are often used. For offshore trolling feather and nylon jigs, strip baits and whole rigged fish are usually used.
Trolling is normally done in two ways. First there is "straight" or "flat" trolling, where the line runs directly from the rod to the lure in a straight line behind the boat.
Second, there is "outrigger" trolling, where long bamboo, metal or glass poles extend outward from the sides of the boat. Some boats also have an outrigger extending vertically in the center of the boat. Outriggers usually have a clothespin or some other clipping device which can be lowered and hoisted to the end of the outrigger by means of a pulley system. The fishing line running from the rod is fastened to this and is hoisted up on the end of the outrigger.
Outriggers allow up to four or more lines to be trolled at the same time. They also keep the bait out of the wake of the boat, make it skim or skip attractively along the surface of the water and make it possible to hook more fish such as sailfish or marlin. These fish often slash at the bait, then return to mouth it. The first strike releases the line from the outrigger, throwing slack line on the water. This gives the billfish time to mouth the bait. When the line tightens, the hook is set and the battle is on.
When you are trolling with outriggers you can hold the rod in your hands if you expect a strike or see fish. But most of the time the rod stays in a rod holder. You usually have a few seconds to grab the rod before the line straightens out.
When trolling flat don't point the tip of the rod at the lure behind the boat. Hold it off to one side so that the shock of a strike or a snag can be taken by the line alone. Nor is it a good idea to hold the rod tip pointing in the opposite direction away from the lure. The rod should be held pointing up to one side so that the rod tip can bend to cushion a strike.
Fish hitting a flat trolled lure usually hook themselves. But after that it's up to the angler to control the fish's runs, prevent slack and judge the amount of drag necessary to fight a particular fish. There are now many devices on the market which hold a rod in trolling position, cushion the strike and allow quick removal of the rod.
Trolling offshore is done with good-sized boats which have inboard motors and which are usually chartered craft. Naturally, if you own a boat you should become thoroughly familiar with it and have a working knowledge of navigation and the waters being fished.
Trolling is usually a two-man game. One man handles the boat while the other man or men do the fishing. This is especially true when you are going after big fish such as swordfish or marlin. It's a full-time job handling the boat, making the lures and lines work right, approaching the fish, maneuvering the boat when a fish is hooked and then helping to boat the fish.
Even inland trolling in more protected bays, inlets and rivers is difficult for one man. You have to dodge other boats, hold the rod, run the motor and boat and control the lines. Whether you are using inboard or outboard motors make sure that they are working smoothly. The slow speeds usually required for trolling demand a motor that is at peak performance.
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Trolling is becoming more and more popular in salt water with the newer and larger outboard motors providing the power.
How much line you let out depends on the depth you want to reach, the fish you are seeking, the location of the trolling, the condition of the water and the lure used.
A short line causes the lure to travel near the surface, while a long line permits it to sink deeper. Some lures work best on short lines, while others require long lines. Certain fish, such as school tuna, albacore and bonito will hit close to a boat and in this case a short line from 15 to 40 ft. long is sufficient. For striped bass a long line is usually needed, especially to get down when the fish are deep (See Chapter 13). In fact, for such fish it is often necessary to have the lure bounce bottom at regular intervals, so you should let out enough line to make this possible. In the beginning you can let the lines out to different lengths behind the boat, but when you get a hit or a fish you can make all the lines the same length. Once you discover the proper length of line for a certain area and fish you can mark it so that you let out the same length each time.
Clear and shallow waters usually call for longer lines than dirtier, murkier waters. When fish are feeding on the surface you can use shorter lines than you would use when they are feeding down deep.
The speed of the boat depends on the lure used, the fish sought, the depth to be reached and the type of waves and currents. The best speed is the one which brings out the proper action of the lure used and results in the most strikes. Feather lures, jigs, strip baits and whole rigged fish are trolled pretty rapidly. Rigged eels, spoons and plugs are usually most effective when trolled slowly. Always test your lure on a short line right next to the boat to see that it is working properly before you let out the line. Sometimes a change of pace—speeding up and then slowing down—will bring a strike.
When trolling rough seas you will often be forced to slow down to ride the seas better. Trolling with the current calls for a faster-moving boat than trolling against the current.
"Blind" trolling is done by just moving the lure behind the boat and covering territory in the hope of getting a strike or fish. If you get action you can circle around and keep trolling the same area. Such trolling is often done en route to offshore grounds in the hope of picking up either game fish or small fish which can be used for bait.
Certain fish, such as bluefish, bonito, albacore, school tuna, king and Spanish mackerel range over a wide area and blind trolling is often done when you are trying to locate them.
On the whole, however, better results are obtained if you can locate certain spots which hold or attract fish. Trolling is best over reefs, banks, sand, rock or mussel bars and wrecks and near breakwaters, jetties, sea walls, piers and bridges. Rips and clashing currents and tides are always good spots to try. Landmarks and shorelines have identifying features which often help to locate good spots within sight of shore.
Always investigate other trolling boats, especially when there are several in one spot. Look for fish swimming or breaking water. If they are chasing bait fish your chances are good that they'll hit a trolled lure. Schools of bait fish swimming or milling around often means that big fish are not far behind or may already be down deep underneath.
After you discover fish, don't head the boat right through the middle of the school. Swing the boat sharply ahead of a school of fish so that your lures will also swing into their view.
You should approach a lone fish by first determining which way it is swimming or facing. Then you can maneuver the boat at a safe distance, allowing the line with the lure to cross in front of the fish. If at the end of the swing the distance between the fish and lure is too great, try throwing the reel into free spool and allowing the lure or bait to drop back.
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Here are some of the different shapes of strips cut from fish and often used for bait in trolling. The safety-pin catch rig above shows how the strips can be hooked.
It's the angler who is alert and active who gets the best results when trolling. Try to hold your rod or be in a position to grab it instantly if you get a strike. And instead of just letting the lure ride behind the boat without action, try jigging it to provide some added variety. This is especially necessary when trolling for such fish as striped bass. When you are using nylon eels or jigs for these fish a short, quick, jigging action will often bring more strikes.
The alert troller also reels in his line at regular intervals to make sure the lure hasn't fouled or isn't covered with grass, seaweed, straw or other debris, Fish will not strike a lure covered with such material.
Don't be afraid to experiment and change lures and depths at which you are trolling. A good idea at the start is to have the lines rigged with different lures. Also try trolling them at different depths. After the first strike or catch the other lines can be changed accordingly.
Trolling also requires a lot of patience, especially when the fish aren't hitting. Slow trolling for hours at a time can be very boring, but it's the anglers who stick it out until the fish start hitting that reap the harvest.
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